Elgin Cathedral

Elgin, Scotland

When we planned our trip to Scotland, we bought the Historic Scotland Explorer Pass. The pass gave us 14 days of access to any Historic Environment Scotland locations throughout the country. The pass pretty much paid for itself after we visited Edinburgh Castle and Stirling Castle, but we explored whether we could use it for more locations. Nearby, where we were staying in Forres, were the ruins of Elgin Cathedral. Since we didn’t have Uncle Rick to rely on for this part of the trip (while his in-country guidebooks are really good, they only feature what he offers as “The Best of Europe”), I decided to strike out and add Elgin Cathedral to the itinerary.

Elgin Cathedral’s history stretches back over 800 years, when work on the cathedral in Moray began in the 1200s. Before building the cathedral, the Bishop of Moray moved between several other locations. The cathedral came to be known as the “Lantern of the North,” known for “illuminating the minds and souls of Northern Scotland.” The cathedral suffered a deliberate fire in the 14th century. Still, it recovered, only to be damaged again by the Scottish Reformation in the 1560s, which ravaged other churches across Scotland, such as St. Andrews Cathedral. The cathedral’s main damage came from neglect, as townspeople stripped it of building materials and used the grounds as a dump. The cathedral’s condition changed only in the 19th century, when John Shanks was hired as its caretaker. Most of what survives today is thanks to him, including many of the carvings that form part of the cathedral’s museum collection.

Today, tourists can access the cathedral. If you do not have a Historic Scotland Explorer Pass, admission costs (2026) are £10 for adults (£11 on-site), £8 for concessions (£9 on-site), and £6 for children 7-15 (£6.50 on-site). You can easily see the cathedral from outside, but the ticket gives visitors access to walk among the ruins and climb the tower. 

The first of two main highlights of the visit to Elgin Cathedral was the tower climb. During the climb, visitors can see many of the artifacts John Shanks found while cleaning the cathedral ruins. There are two sides to the tower climb, but only the north side gives visitors access to the roof and vistas of Elgin and the surrounding area, as visitors can see Elgin and the surrounding countryside

The second highlight of Elgin Cathedral is visiting the still-standing cathedral chapter. The chapter was an octagonal room where canons gathered to hear readings, hold meetings, and administer discipline. Large glass windows surround the room, and it is a great place for the soul. Handouts about the room are present in multiple languages. I would encourage the weary traveler or pilgrim to spend a few minutes here in self-reflection.

The ruins of Elgin Cathedral were a highlight of our visit and some of the most impactful ruins I have encountered on my travels. Ruins remind us that even buildings made of metal and stone are fleeting and can disappear without care. Elgin Cathedral represents the magic and awe of a different time when the church attempted to provide a view of heaven on earth for its parishioners. Few people were present during our visit, but the cathedral was a true gem. We could park on the street next to the Cathedral, and except for some odd steps, the site was fairly accessible.