St. Andrews, Scotland
For a town that only has a permanent population of 16,460 (2022), St. Andrews punches way above its weight when it comes to global impact. St. Andrews is the birthplace of one of the most popular sports on the planet. St. Andrews is also home to the third-oldest university in the English-speaking world. St. Andrews was also home to what was once the largest cathedral in all of Scotland.
Today, St. Andrews Cathedral lies in ruins, but it is fascinating to see how that came to be. The site of the cathedral was used as a monastery beginning in the 8th century. The location was selected because relics attributed to St. Andrew were brought here. St. Andrew was named the patron saint of Scotland, and his cross is represented on the Scottish flag today. Eventually, construction of a cathedral was started in the 12th century. After delays caused by storms and the First Scottish War of Independence, St. Andrews Cathedral was completed in 1318, dedicated by Robert the Bruce.
In many ways, it is amazing that so many ruins exist, as many problems befell St. Andrews Cathedral during its time as an active church. The west end of the cathedral was blown down during a storm. Lead was stripped from the roofs during the Wars of Independence. The cathedral suffered a major fire in 1378, and the south transept collapsed during a winter storm in 1409. By this point, the cathedral would not have been able to maintain a modern insurance policy, but the worst damage was yet to come. John Knox, the reformer of the Church of Scotland, preached a sermon here on June 11, 1559, that aroused the congregation to the point that they attacked all of the fittings and furnishings in the cathedral. The attacks continued, even destroying the relics housed in the cathedral. St. Andrews Cathedral was abandoned and transitioned into a quarry for the other buildings in the town.
Today, St. Andrews Cathedral is part of Historic Environment Scotland, although it does not cost to enter this location. The hours change throughout the year, but they are easily available on the website. When we visited in June 2026, there was major renovation work occurring with the museum, shop, and part of the graveyard. I would encourage any visitors to use the restroom before visiting, as nothing is currently available on site.
Rick Steves gives St. Andrews Cathedral a one-triangle, worthwhile designation in his Scotland guidebook. He points out in his entry that St. Andrews Cathedral “was slowly picked apart over time.” I’ve traveled enough to see humans continually reuse the materials found in older structures for newer structures. I agree with Uncle Rick’s assessment of the St. Andrews Cathedral Ruins as it is a worthwhile stop, especially if you are already in St. Andrews. My lasting impression, though, was of sadness. What kind of splendor would this place be if it were still a cathedral that represented all of Scotland? How visited would this place be if St. Andrew’s relics were not lost or destroyed? Still, as a Christian, I have to remember that it is not the building that makes the church; it is the people.