Edinburgh Castle

Posted on by Stephen Edwards

Edinburgh, Scotland

Edinburgh Castle towers over the city and the surrounding area. At the highest point in Edinburgh, Iron Age warriors built a fort on the site of the current castle, and a castle has stood there for around 1000 years. King Malcolm III of Scotland first built Edinburgh Castle in the 11th century, but the castle has changed roles throughout the centuries. First, the castle served as a home for the combined royal family of Scotland. Later, the castle served as a military barracks, and today it is a living museum of Scotland’s royal and military history.

Taken from outside the gate, Edinburgh Castle has many visitors. We were on the esplanade, and this area becomes part of that staging ground for the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo.

The day that we arrived was very crowded. Crowding is very typical during the summer months when we visited, as well as during other peak travel seasons. Edinburgh is the most visited city in Scotland, and Edinburgh Castle is the second most popular destination in the country (only the National Museum of Scotland attracts more people). If you want to go, you need to sign up for a slot ahead of time to gain entry to the castle. While we were using the Historic Scotland Explorer Pass, I was able to sign up months in advance for a visit and reserve my slot before activating the pass. These reservations do not cost and only hold a slot for the Historic Scotland Explorer Pass. Otherwise, you can also purchase tickets before your trip. Edinburgh Castle sells out frequently, so do not wait until the day of to purchase tickets, as you will not be able to enter the castle.

View of Edinburgh from the castle. In the Center is Edinburgh Waverley Train Station. The black structure on the left is the Sir Walter Scott Monument, a monument dedicated to one of Scotland’s greatest authors. The tall structure behind the train station is the Balmoral Hotel. Behind the hotel is Carlton Hill, home to the National Monument of Scotland, dedicated to the Scottish troops who perished in the Napoleonic Wars, and the Nelson Monument, dedicated to Lord Nelson and his naval victory at Trafalgar.

When we visited in June, the castle was between two major events. One, bleachers were set up on the castle esplanade for the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo, a show that runs for three weeks in August and features military music and bagpipes. Two, the day that we visited was the opening of the Scottish Parliament. The castle had to open later in the day, and the Scottish Crown jewels were missing, as King Charles III was using them. Edinburgh Castle is the home of the Scottish Crown Jewels, so some logistics had to be taken into account for the king’s visit to the city.

Photos are not allowed of the Scottish Crown Jewels, but when they are missing, this sign comes out to the queue. When we got to the room, I joked that the King of England stole the Scottish Crown Jewels today and received a chuckle from the docent in the room.

One of the major daily events in the castle is the firing of the one o’clock gun. With a little military ceremony, the gun is fired precisely at one o’clock PM, Monday through Saturday. The gun is silent only on Sundays and Christmas Day. Historically, the gun was fired so that ships in the harbor could set their clocks to the exact time. There’s a major joke that the reason the time is set at one o’clock as opposed to noon is so that the Scots could save 11 rounds of bullets. The gun’s firing attracts a large crowd, so it is important to arrive beforehand to find a good vantage point for the show.

I was not expecting my own video to recoil, but I guess it is just a natural reaction when you are holding a phone over a castle wall.

Next, we visited St. Margaret’s Chapel. Located at the highest point, the chapel was built by King David in memory of his saintly mother. I’ll write a separate post on the chapel, as it is the oldest existing building in Edinburgh and quite a moving experience to be in a 1,000-year-old church that is still operating.

Outside St. Margaret’s Chapel is Mons Meg, a 15th-century cannon that was used fo sieging castles for over 200 years.

We also spent time at the Royal Apartments, the birthplace of King James VI or I, depending on his numbering in Scotland and England. This King James, who is attributed to the famous translation of the Bible that he commissioned in 1604, with its first publication in 1611. James was also the first combined monarch of Scotland and England, claiming the English throne upon the death of his cousin, Queen Elizabeth I. There are very few items left over from the royal period, but visitors get the impression of how royalty lived when they were in the castle.

King James’s most lasting legacy might be commissioning a translation of the Bible into English. This early printing is on display in the royal apartments where he was born, the son of Queen Mary of Scots. This edition is turned to the First Book of Moses, which most Christians refer to as the Book of Genesis.

The Scottish National War Memorial is very thought-provoking and moving. Do not attempt to take any photos or videos in the Scottish National War Memorial. The restriction on photography is plainly listed, as the Scottish National War Memorial is a very moving and reflective place. Over one quarter of all Scottish service members in World War I perished, and there was not a family or community in Scotland where this impact was not felt. I’ve written about this impact before when I visited England and Wales. With a World War I death rate over twice as high in Scotland as their English and Welsh countrymen, the Scots were disproportionately impacted by tragic losses in the Great War. Scotland also lost many troops a generation later in World War II, and this memorial is for the Scots who paid the ultimate sacrifice in both wars. Also memorialized are the Scots who have lost their lives in the military to this day. The United Kingdom has participated in many military engagements since World War II. While we were in the chapel, we saw a couple of people have their phones confiscated because they were not following the staff’s simple request not to take photos or videos in the memorial. The memorial is incredibly moving, and someone’s grief does not need to be captured on film. There are so many places in the castle where photos can be taken, so please leave this place for remembrance and reflection. I did not take any photos or videos for this exact reason.

Instead of photos inside the memorial, here is one of the armed service members standing guard. Simon was confused about the uniforms and asked, “Why do they have so much hair?”

The renovated Great Hall still hosts events as it did in its heyday, when the castle still hosted royal balls and gatherings. After James IV built the Great Hall, it served as a royal hall for several generations until the room was repurposed as a barracks. According to signage at the castle, the hall was renovated under the reign of Queen Victoria in 1887.

Displayed in the Great Hall, Richard Ansdell’s painting ‘The Fight for the Standard’ shows the moment when Charles Ewart captured a French Regimental Eagle during the Battle of Waterloo. The Eagle is on display in the Scots Dragoon Guards Museum in the castle.

Speaking of Victoria, she was a major proponent of Scottish culture, especially Highland culture. In addition to the renovations within the castle, there was a strong desire to promote Highland culture through the military. The museums in the castle dedicated to the Royal Scots Dragoons Guards, the Royal Scots Regimental Museum, and the National War Museum Scotland glorify this connection and give Highland Scots a way to protect their culture while helping the United Kingdom become a global empire. With the different exhibits, the visitor gains an earnest appreciation of the many uses of Edinburgh Castle over the last millennium.

Here is the actual standard depicted in Ansdell’s painting. Many of the exhibits in the three different military museums include prizes captured during battle, medals given to soldiers, uniforms, historic weaponry, and other items directly related to soldiers and their many deployments around the globe.

Overall, we had an amazing visit, and Edinburgh Castle was a great introduction to Scotland.  I would strongly recommend visiting Edinburgh Castle to any first-time visitor to Edinburgh. The castle is visible from anywhere in the city, and the views that you get from the castle are wonderful on a sunny day, which we were fortunate to have during our stay. If you choose to go to the castle without the pass, the 2026 online cost is £23.50 for adults, £19 for concessions, and £14 for children. There is an additional cost for booking tickets on-site, but that would probably not be an option during the busy holiday seasons.

Inside the castle, we found a British Redcoat soldier, who had several interesting anecdotes. The British adopted red for their uniforms because red was the cheapest color dye. Also, the firearms were nicknamed ‘Brown Bess,‘ and they likely got their nickname from the tanned ladies that soldiers liked to frequent in taverns when they were off duty.

Here are some tips for your visit. First, realize that the castle is uphill from everywhere in town, so you’re gonna have to walk either upstairs or up a hill. If you drive into the castle area, as we did, please note that parking in downtown Edinburgh is very pricey, costing at least £8 per hour in most locations. We also ate at the Redcoat Café in the castle, which offered several decent lunch options with great views of the city. There is also a tea room that is available beside the Great Hall. Since visitors will spend a few hours in the castle, you’ll either want to eat right before you go or find something immediately afterward, as they will burn off many calories walking through the castle grounds. It is advisable to use the restrooms just inside the castle. There are restrooms at other locations, but these are the easiest to access.

Simon in one of the windows at the Redcoat Café. The café shuts down briefly when the one o’clock gun is being set up and fired for safety reasons, as the café is located close to the gun.

I mentioned the crowds earlier, so visitors need to know they are visiting one of the most popular places in Scotland’s most popular city. Visitors should mentally prepare for crowds, although most areas in the castle are well managed. Visitors should also recognize that many other visitors might not be as experienced or as informed travelers as the readers of my blog. Do not use Edinburgh Castle as your barometer for the friendliness of people in Scotland, as most of the accents that I heard at Edinburgh Castle were not Scottish. Overall, Rick Steves gives Edinburgh Castle his highest, three-triangle, must-see rating, and I have to agree. Reading the entry on Edinburgh Castle and taking his Scotland travel guidebook with me went a great way towards preparing for the trip. Finally, take the castle at your own pace. I am certain that people can rush through the castle in 60 minutes, but we spent over three hours and could still have explored more areas within the castle walls.

Leaving Edinburgh Castle, we exited into the esplanade, which transforms as the arena that hosts the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo. I have provided a link to give the reader an idea of what the show would provide. No doubt that the castle provides a powerful backdrop for the performance.

2 thoughts on “Edinburgh Castle”

  1. Pingback: Saint Margaret’s Chapel – I Never Take Them Anywhere!
  2. Pingback: Stirling Castle – I Never Take Them Anywhere!

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