Helsingborg, Sweden
Sometimes, the history that we have is the result of an error, as is the case for Kärnan. Originally the keep for Helsingborg Castle, the Kärnan is the only part of the medieval structure that remains. Helsingborg Castle helped the Danes control the Øresund. Paired with Kronborg Castle on the opposite shore, ships that failed to pay the fine could be sunk with ease by guns from both castles. Once Sweden finally took control of Scania, King Karl XI of Sweden ordered that Helsingborg Castle be demolished in 1680. Sweden did not need the ancient structure, as it was not allowed to collect sound tolls. Without the income from the Øresund, King Karl XI ordered the destruction, but in error, he failed to give the order to demolish the keep or the core. Kärnan, which is Swedish for “core,” became the new name for the structure, which remains today.
Today, the Kärnan offers a great view of Helsingborg. It is possible to visit the structure; it costs 100 Swedish Krona for adults and no cost for children up to 18. The hours to visit the structure are limited and vary by season. The website updates its opening times, so it is advisable to check whether the tower is open before your visit. We knew we would not make it in time for a tour of the castle, but we were able to visit the Slottshagen (Castle Garden) and walk around the structure. The walk to the garden from the port takes only a few minutes, but it is all uphill. Pedestrians have three options: climb the hill, climb the steep Terrace Stairs, or pay to take a street elevator, which is unfortunately the only option for people in wheelchairs or with strollers. The Google reviews are scathing about the elevator, and I can confirm that the staff did not provide customer service. Still, I cared more about Adrienne’s knees than about an elevator operator who needed more joy in their life.
The sign in front of the Kärnan shows the earliest artistic depiction of the castle, dating to the 1580s. This artwork shows a wall, a moat, and many other buildings that no longer exist. Excavations in the Slottshagen have given researchers some clues about the city. Still, a clear picture of the castle’s extent does not exist, as very little historical documentation survives for the structure.
In many ways, the singular tower is more striking on the skyline of Helsingborg than the former castle would have been. The Kärnan gives Helsingborg a unique skyline, one that includes only a partial castle. Tourists to Helsingborg should take some time to visit Kärnan and Slottshagen. The photos from the top can be Instagram-worthy, and I know that at least one of them will feature on the I Never Take Them Anywhere social media page. I cannot speak to actually visiting the interior of Kärnan, but if I return to Helsingborg, I would want to visit “the core” as part of my itinerary.
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