“A Bunch of Rocks to Me”

Amesbury, England

On an island dotted with stone circles, Stonehenge is the most famous. People from all around the world travel to Britain to see the famous ring of stones. People see Stonehenge and wonder what it means. Was it just a really expensive calendar? Was it a site of prehistoric rituals? Was it built by aliens?

Adrienne and I had visited Stonehenge on our honeymoon in 2003. I booked a day trip out of London that took us by motor coach to Stonehenge and Bath. We found it rather funny that Stonehenge is always pictured as out in the middle of the country, among great pastures and skies, when, in actuality, it is near a major highway and airplanes are flying over pretty consistently, as Stonehenge is on a major flight path for planes going to and from London. Between Adrienne and I, we knew we had seen Stonehenge, and we really had no desire to go back.

We started planning our trip to the United Kingdom for December 2024. We looked at arriving about a week sooner. Our original plans could have included going to Stonehenge for the winter solstice. Stonehenge opens for a few hours during the summer and winter solstices for people who wish to come in and walk around the stones, as the monument is of religious significance to some. It seemed appealing to visit because usually you could not get access to the stones, but alas, we flew in on Christmas Day, so we knew we would not try to make this trip. However, there are limited options for people who want to see the stones up close.

For all three boys, this was their first time in England. We presented them with a few options for our final day, and all three really wanted to go to Stonehenge. When you think about it, Stonehenge is one of the sites most associated with the United Kingdom, and I can see why the three of them, as first-time visitors along with Aunt Logan (also a first-time visitor), would like to go, as Adrienne and I did in 2003.

We did things a little differently this time because it is possible to visit Stonehenge without paying a fee. Many people complain that English Heritage uses Stonehenge to raise funds far beyond what it costs to run Stonehenge. No doubt they are correct, as it is a pretty good investment for them to be making millions of pounds per year off a structure that is over 5000 years old and requires little upkeep. What do people pay for? It’s not for access to the stones, even though you do get a bit closer than people who come to the stones for free. What you are paying for is that you don’t have to walk a mile and a half to the stones and can instead catch a bus to and from the site.

The car park still charges whether you were a paying customer or not, and because the roads have been changed, the car park beside the visitor center has to be used by both people hiking and those taking a bus to Stonehenge. If you pay through English Heritage, you also have access to exhibits about the monument. Fortunately, the restrooms are free for all, so we took advantage of that before we made the long hike to and from what Adrienne and I affectionately refer to as “a bunch of rocks.”

The hike to the stones is straight and involves a couple of gently rolling hills. Bring water, as you’ll be thirsty, and bring a pair of shoes that you don’t mind walking in for a pretty good distance. If you have mobility issues or you are hindered by three miles of walking, take the bus. Another reason to take the bus is time: when we visited, the sunset was at almost 4:00 in the afternoon. With the bus ride, our visit to Stonehenge could have been quicker, and we could have visited other nearby sites during daylight hours.

Is Stonehenge overrated? No, I wouldn’t say Stonehenge is overrated, as it is a structure of historical and cultural significance. Thanks to improvements in camera technology, I felt we got much better photos during this visit. The second time we visited Stonehenge, I was just taking a photo on my iPhone. Because the sun was much lower on the horizon, I was able to catch photos of the sun beams dancing across the stones. We did not see this effect on our first trip, which was in July. Stonehenge has religious significance for many people, so they’re gonna make the trip as often as they can.  I know that with my DNA, I am certain that I probably had ancestors at some time that made a trip to Stonehenge, so I can see the allure of trying to get in touch with these people and try to find out their hopes and dreams and why they built and gathered at this monument so many years ago.

One of the main questions that I have as a traveler is, “Should I make a repeat visit to a site?” With Stonehenge, the answer for Adrienne and I would have been no. However, we knew how important it would be for our sons (Logan, too) to visit Stonehenge and gain a sense of awe from one of the world’s most famous prehistoric sites. Stonehenge is nowhere near the top hundred places I’ve ever been that I would like to make a repeat visit to. However, I’m appreciative of the chance to view the stones again and, more importantly, to introduce this “bunch of rocks” to the boys.